What is wave refraction?

Wave refraction refers to the bending of waves as they approach the shore, which occurs due to the change in the depth of the water. As waves enter shallower water near the coastline, they slow down, and different parts of the wave may travel at different speeds. This difference in speed causes the waves to bend or refract, concentrating the wave energy onto certain areas of the shore, typically resulting in increased erosion and changes in the coastal landscape.

This phenomenon is critical in coastal geography as it affects beach formation, sediment transport, and the impact of waves on coastal structures, thereby influencing coastal management practices. Understanding wave refraction provides insight into how coastlines evolve and why certain areas may be more susceptible to erosion compared to others.